![]() Once you get the hose clamps off, I suggest you run a pick/flathead screwdriver around the hose to seperate it from the valve cover - this is true for all the coolant hoses, etc. I will try to find a picture that shows the technique. There are a few hose clamps that are one time use - you can remove them using a flathead screwdriver and a light tap with a hammer. Next you should remove the hoses for the crank case breather. You have to unplug each of them, and remove the ground wire from the valve cover. I started the process by unplugging all of the ignition coils to get the harness out of the way. This is why I took a lot of things out of the way - The goal was to remove everything that crossed over in the back of the engine. Obviously if the part is hard to see, it will be hard to work on. The coolant will start pouring out - so have a bucket ready You remove the clip and pull the sensor out. It is easiest to access this with the car on ramps. To drain the coolant, look for the Coolant Sensor on the driver's side of the vehicle down below the headlight. In order to minimize the mess this will make, I recommend you drain the coolant. The picture on the right shows approximately where it is located - with the arrow pointing at the coolant temperature sensor. There are two hoses that go to it, and one coolant temperature sensor. It is secured to the engine via two bolts. The picture on the left shows how it is oriented in the car. You probably won't be able to see it, but it's back there. You should first try to see if you can see the coolant flange - it is behind the engine towards the firewall. To the right you can see the flange on the top - the tools are some picks, a magnet, some pliers and a pair of vice grips may be useful. The flange can be purchased at the dealer for $28 bucks - you can refer to the dealer catalog to find the part You need a few simple hand tools, and then of courrse the coolant flange. SUPPLIES - The supplies for this are pretty simple. ![]() The method I took was 'more work, less frustrating' - which means I removed parts you dont HAVE to remove, in order to make room for my hands, and see what I was doing. Now there are about a dozen ways to replace this part - this is by no means the only way to do it. Replacement at a dealer can be upwards of $600, but you can DIY for about 1/10th that This flange is right at the back of the engine just in front of the firewall - it is plastic, and the heat cycling apparently causes it to fail early. This is almost always caused by an issue with the rear coolant flange. NOTE: All pics are hyperlinked to higher resolution versions.Ī very common issue with the 1.8T is a coolant leak at the rear of the engine. Engine Coolant Temp Sensor (G62) Replacement.Valve Cover Install with DTH Coil Cover.
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